MHOW, the linchpin!!!

A small cantonment on the Mumbai-Agra Highway in M.P., Mhow is truly a linchpin for the Maratha dynasties, the British Era and the Indian Army. Although the town was founded as a result of the Treaty of Mandsaur between the English and the Marathas of Indore about 200 years back, it still houses the architecture of the British, the craft and culture of the Marathas and the infrastructure of the Indian Army.

The two months I spent in Army War College in Mhow, during my husband's course, were sheer bliss. Well planned cantonment, small local eating joints, the architectural sites in and near Mhow and above all the markets loaded with plenty of inexpensive and good quality stuff, all contributed in making my stay a memorable and cherished one.

Here I am writing this page for all the ladies who are all set to pack their bags for Mhow and that too for the first time. Get lots and lots of empty bags, for Mhow won't let you go empty handed.

I start by listing some of the best things in Mhow that you can lay your hands on and where to find them:

In-house fabric weaving at the Rehwa Handloom

1. Maheshwari & Chanderi Sarees/ Suits  :  Cotton and silk weaving is an age old tradition in M.P. and Mhow offers a variety of Maheshwari and Chanderi sarees and suits. A no. of good shops like Balaji Collection, Raj Kumar Mills, Stitch well etc in the main market of Mhow deal in them. You can also check out the emporiums near the Ahilya Fort in Maheshwar city

2. Bagh Print : This is an age old technique of block printing using natural colors. A wide variety of colors and designs are available in cotton and silk materials in all the three shops mentioned above.

3. Linens : Mhow shops will also fascinate you with its medley of linens - Bed Linens, Table Linens, Bath Linens, Curtains and so much more. You can also get them made as per your requirement in matching colors and design. Dohar sets are also worth a buy.

4. Smocking dresses : Smocking is an embroidery technique in which the fabric is gathered to give it a stretching texture. Smocked frocks, night suits and gowns are available in many shops of the main market.

Got a saree designed for myself with golden
shadow work. I adorned it with pearl lace later.

5. Shadow work : Mhow is also well known for its shadow embroidery. Shopkeepers dealing in dress materials have a variety of sarees with Shadow work too. There are also two exclusive Shadow Work shops namely Manju Shadow Work and Shobna Shadow work, in swimming pool complex and signal vihar complex resp. You can order for sarees, kurtas, and duppattas in the color combinations of your choice.
P.S. : If you have a chance of going to Lucknow, then keep the shadow work shopping for Lucknow. Lucknow offers beautiful Shadow and Chikan work combination in very reasonable prices, almost half of the price you'll be paying in Mhow.

6. Paintings : Mhow oil painters are the most loved in the Indian Army. You can choose from a wide range of scenic frames to spiritual themes or even get your own portrait done by them. The painting shops are mostly at the end of the main market. You can check out 'ColorSpot' for the same, but be sure to give the order with atleast 1 month in hand.

7. Western wear : You will be surprised to know that you can find the latest fashion from 'LBDs' to 'Pallazos' in Mhow too. The shop 'Fashion Street' caters to all the western outfits demand and that too at a very reasonable price.

8. Leather : Although personally I don't prefer leather items but for those who are interested, Mhow harbors so many leather craftsmen that you can choose from a wide range of artifacts. They deal in animal crafts, furniture, decor items, Bean bags, hand bags, belts, wallets, jackets and footwears.
Start with checking out the AWWA shop in the army college campus. There are a lot of leather shops at the end of the main bazaar also. But before investing, make sure of surveying the prices of the common items. Prices are way too less in the AWWA shop.
You can also go for tailor-made boots/sandals in your favorite color or just hand over a cutting of 'Gucci' shoes to the craftsman and get your own made in 10 times lesser price. For custom made shoes, check out the shop in the swimming pool complex rather than those in the main market. The complex shop offers fixed and very cheap price for boots and sandals.
Babji Leather House is also a well known supplier of Leather items. You can also pay a visit to the Tata Factory in Dewas to get hold of some fashionable shoes as the products are exported to leading global brands.

9. Celina Jaitley Boutique : Drop in on Celina Jaitley's boutique run by her mother to get a look at some designer kurtis and tops.


Apart from your shopping list, do take out time for sight seeing and pamper your taste buds too. Here's a list of what all you can see and where you can dine :

1. College Campus Restaurants : Aashiyana, Milan and Shangri-La are your best options for a peaceful evening.

2. Shangri-La Theatre : Get hold of your 'fauji' friends if you are not from the Army to watch a movie under the stars in the open air theater of Infantry School. You'll definitely cherish this experience every time you sit in a multiplex.

3. Col's Hotel Uphaar : Started by Late Col Gupta, the Hotel offers fine dining experience. It is located on A.B. Road.

4. Swimming Pool Complex : Feeling short of recreational activities in Mhow?? Go for a swim in the college campus pool. The place is quite lively due to the Shadow work and leather shops in the complex.

5. Relish : Step into Relish store to feed you burger cravings. It is located in Malwa complex and has the best veg/non veg burgers in the city.

6. Bhanwari Lal Mithaiwala : This 70 year old sweet shop should never be missed by anyone. It's a treat for all those with a sweet tooth. And if you happen to visit Mhow in off season for mangoes, don't forget to gorge on their 'Aam Paak'.

7. Street Food : The roadside vendors at the end of the main market are also worth giving a try for South Indian platter.

8. Berchha Lake : The serene and calm Berchha lake is the best place to spend a peaceful evening with family and friends. The area is mainly controlled by the army for training purposes but it is open for boating for all.

A view of the Choral River from the Resort

9. Choral Dam : The breezy Choral will give you an opportunity to witness the sun rising through the hills. You can even plan a stay at the Choral resort by M.P. Tourism.

10. Patalpani : This waterfall is a famous picnic spot in Mhow. Sadly, it has been more in the news for accidents, as the area is flood prone. The base of the waterfall is believed to be so deep as to reach the core of the Earth, hence the name 'Patal'. It mainly comes to life during the rainy season and remains dried up during summers.

11. Nakhreli Dhani : It is a concept restaurant capturing the spirit of Rajasthan villages and made on the lines of the very famous 'Chokhi Dhaani'. The big Rajasthani Thaali of the theme village will definitely delight your palate. It's located on Rangwasa Road, Rau.

12. Indore : Spare the weekend for a visit to Indore city which is just about 25 km from Mhow. It not only embodies malls and multiplexes, but embraces those eating joints also which you'll not find elsewhere. Like the Sarafa Bazaar, which is famous for its 1 gm gold jewellery in the daytime and the street food after the dusk. And not to forget the Chappan (56) dukaan for the 'chaat' and 'pakode'.

13.  Ujjain : The ancient city of Ujjain is around 90 km from Mhow. It is home to the sacred Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga temple which is situated along the Rudra Sagar Lake. If you have more than 1 day to spend in Ujjain, do check out other places like Kaliadeh Palace and The Vedh Shala.

14. Maheshwar : The city is small but has a rich history of the Marathas. The 2 hour drive will not wear you down once you step into the glorious 'Ahilya Fort'. The fort-turned-museum will surely fascinate you with its carved walls, historic weapons and most importantly the sight of the fabric weaving in the Rehwa Society.

I guess the list is quite extensive but it is still missing on many things, and that's why Mhow is such a beautiful place to live in because it has so much to offer that we always miss out on something or the other.

Have a happy stay and happy shopping....:)